Mar 2026Fashion
Véronique Nichanian’s Last Word Was Cast In ConcreteAna Cecilia AssisReinforced concrete, intarsia coats, and stony grays marked the end of an era at Hermès. Véronique Nichanian took her final bow after 37 years, making her fashion’s longest-serving creative director. Over nearly four decades, she reshaped menswear quietly—relaxed tailoring, tactile fabrics, and a palette that expanded Hermès’ idea of masculinity. Her subtlety redefined luxury, embedding craftsmanship at the core of the men's line. Backstage, there was no nostalgia. When asked about it, she simply replied, “Because it was fun.”
The Fall/Winter 2026 collection brought brutalism to Hermès menswear. Fifty-nine silhouettes, stripped of excess. Saddle stitching and exposed zips serve as real hardware, calling attention to the underlying structure. A standout look featured a slate-gray double-breasted overcoat with double-stitched seams, a stone-colored turtleneck, and sharply tailored trousers. The coat’s oversized lapels and architectural lines reinforced the collection’s mood while remaining distinctly Hermès. Elsewhere, a heavy reversible blouson opens along industrial zippers that run down the sleeves and back, revealing how the garment is built rather than hiding it.
Her approach stood apart. While others moved toward spectacle, she stayed with construction. The collection is built from materials that hold their own weight, with nothing added that doesn’t serve a purpose.
Her approach stood apart. While others moved toward spectacle, she stayed with construction. The collection is built from materials that hold their own weight, with nothing added that doesn’t serve a purpose.
The Fall/Winter 2026 collection brought brutalism to Hermès menswear. Fifty-nine silhouettes, stripped of excess. Saddle stitching and exposed zips serve as real hardware, calling attention to the underlying structure. A standout look featured a slate-gray double-breasted overcoat with double-stitched seams, a stone-colored turtleneck, and sharply tailored trousers. The coat’s oversized lapels and architectural lines reinforced the collection’s mood while remaining distinctly Hermès. Elsewhere, a heavy reversible blouson opens along industrial zippers that run down the sleeves and back, revealing how the garment is built rather than hiding it.
The evolution is clear: while her dedication to timeless, purposeful design endures, the mood distinctly shifts from airy refinement to an unapologetically architectural presence. Just as Perret’s building has endured since the 1930s, Nichanian’s clothing seeks the same lasting quality.For five long minutes, the Palais Brongniart stood ovating. Clients, editors, and collaborators rose as decades of work played overhead. Her heritage, evident in each detail of craft and fabric. An entire foundation of lasting design. Nichanian leaves behind a system—one built on precision, restraint, and the belief that structure outlasts style.Her departing gift—a reminder: Trends dissolve, but construction remains.
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